Thursday, December 3, 2015

DIY Rear Table Swing-Away Adapter/ Roadtrek Rear Table Modification

Getting in and out of the rear table has been a problem for us, there is barely enough room to move around it. You literally have to suck your guts in to squeeze through around the table. Moving the tabletop base further off-center is not an option for me as it will put too much strain on the tabletop, not to mention the modification needed for its storage. The tabletop also doubles a bed platform and cannot be modified or shortened.

My solution is to modify the table leg and adding a swing-away bracket. The swing-away bracket will add 6-inches off-set of the tabletop from the center pole and allows the table to easily swing out of the way if needed. It only needs few materials which are readily available at your local home improvement store but it does involve some metal welding/fabricating.

The rear table swing-away adapter.

Materials needed:
  • Two= 1 ½ inch to 1/2 inch PVC reducer bushing
  • About 6 inches long ½ inch metal pipe (I used black pipe)
  • About 8.25 inches long 10-gauge or thicker hollow rectangular metal bar
  • Fast setting epoxy and paint of choice
  • Hand-tightened screw-in bolt and nut (salvaged from a desk chair) 
I started by cutting the table leg about 54-mm. from the top. You need to make a perfect straight cut as you will need both pieces in this project. Before proceeding to cut the other pieces, make sure the ½ inch pipe will nicely fit in the PVC reducer bushing center hole, if not, this is the best time to sand it and make it fit.

Next is to cut two pieces of ½ inch tubing of the same length about 60mm. long. Cut the hollow rectangular bar to about 8.25 inches long and drill a ½ inch through hole on each end to accommodate the ½ inch metal tubing you have just cut. Weld the ½ inch pipes into the rectangular tubing in same fashion as pictured below. If you don’t have a welder, a muffler shop or metal fabrication shop can easily weld it for you for a minimal fee. You also need to weld a nut on the table leg for the hand tightened screw-in bolt. Fit both PVC reducer bushings inside the longer lower and shorter upper table leg ends, use quick setting epoxy to glue it in place. After assembly of fabricated parts, I pour fast setting epoxy into the PVC reducer bushing 3-hollow chambers to give it more strength.

 After cleaning/grinding the weld joints.

Side view of the pivoting arm.

 A nut for the hand-tightened bolt welded in place.

 After painting with Titanium Metallic Silver paint. All it needs now are plastic end caps for the hollow rectangular bar ends for an OEM look. A thin nylon washer is installed between the pivot arm and the lower table leg post to prevent binding and scuffing the paint.

 With the tabletop mounted.

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